His travels took him to a farm near Pollachi where he watched local farmers make jaggery. He spent a lot of time in the region in his quest for authentic heirloom recipes. Chef Sheik Mohideen who helms the Savya Rasa chain of restaurants (that serve authentic Southern Indian cuisine) is proud of his Kongunad roots. The region's cuisine is distinct and has finally been put under the spotlight at a time when micro-cuisines across India are enjoying much deserved recognition.

It's also in the heart of the Kongunad region that were under the reign of the famous Chera dynasty during the Sangam era (1st to 4th century CE). This area is a recurring backdrop for many Tamil films set in a rural milieu. Pollachi (in Tamil Nadu's South West and close to Coimbatore) and its surrounds are among the most photogenic pockets of Tamil Nadu. Once it is 'set' in these moulds, the karupatti or Karuppu (black) patti is ready for consumption. Once it's cooled it is poured into moulds - most farms use coconut shells for the moulds. The unfermented juice is filtered and then boiled till it bubbles in iron vats. The pots are coated with slaked lime to ensure that the sap does not ferment.

The sap that oozes from the sapling is collected in these pots usually in the cooler months of the year. An earthen pot is placed under a palm sapling that is skilfully sliced. The process of making Karupatti or palm jaggery in Tamil Nadu is quite similar to how Nolen gur is made in Bengal. Just like my soft corner for Bengali sweets with Nolen Gur, I enjoy sweets that use Karupatti, a popular sweetening agent in Tamil Nadu. When it comes to Indian sweets, I'm usually torn between Bengali delicacies and traditional South Indian sweets like Adhirasam. There's a mellow, almost smoky sweetness when polished white sugar is substituted with palm jaggery.

Mappilapttu karke dawunlod